What is your wall made of?
Before the how comes the onto what. The substrate decides the adhesive, the type of fixing and, in one case, whether you should go ahead at all. Test your wall here before you order.
Painted wall
Test it first: press a piece of painter's tape firmly onto the wall and rip it off in one go. If paint comes away with it, that paint will not hold anything and has to come off — no adhesive will fix it.
Flexible stone: with sound paint, sand to dull the sheen, vacuum the dust and apply a bonding primer. Alternatively, polymer adhesive straight onto it. Satin or gloss paint always needs sanding: adhesive will not grip a sealed surface.
Insulated panels: these are screwed, so the paint is irrelevant. What matters is whether what sits behind it will hold a screw.
Tiles
Test it first: knock across the whole area with a knuckle. Any tile that sounds hollow has come loose and needs to come off before you start.
Flexible stone: one of the best substrates there is, precisely because it saves you hacking the wall off. Sand the glaze, vacuum, apply bonding primer and then the adhesive — or use polymer adhesive. Deep grout lines are worth levelling first.
Insulated panels: fix with plugs made for ceramic, drilling with a glass bit and no hammer action. On old tiling, batten out first and fix the panels to the battens.
Plasterboard
Test it first: find the metal studs with a detector or by knocking — the sound turns from hollow to solid every 40 cm. Mark them in pencil before you start.
Flexible stone: weighs about 4 kg per m², well within what plasterboard carries. Prime the board, then polymer adhesive or flexible cement adhesive. In a bathroom the board must be moisture-resistant (the green one).
Insulated panels: weigh about 3.5 kg per m². Fix into the metal studs wherever you can; away from them, use expansion plugs made for plasterboard, never a screw straight into the board.
External wall insulation (ETICS)
Here flexible stone goes in as the system's finish, not on top of it. On an ETICS wall the last layer is normally a thin decorative render. Flexible stone can replace that finish coat: it goes onto the reinforced layer — mesh and levelling mortar — at just 4 kg/m² and with nothing drilled. You end up with a natural-stone façade and the insulation untouched.
Over an already finished system it also works, onto the thin render, provided it is sound and fully cured. Either way, talk to whoever installed the ETICS before going ahead — they are the ones who answer for the system warranty.
Insulated panels: this one is different, because mechanical fixing goes straight through the insulation. Do not screw into ETICS. The correct solution is a support structure fixed to the structural wall behind the insulation, with every penetration properly sealed. This is work for a façade installer.
Render, masonry and concrete
Test it first: scratch the render with a key. If it crumbles or sheds sand, it is at the end of its life and needs consolidating or replacing.
Flexible stone: the reference substrate. Flexible C2 cement adhesive, applied with a 3–4 mm notched trowel, then a rubber roller over the piece so no bubbles or hollow spots are left behind.
Insulated panels: plug and screw straight in, no special preparation. On an uneven wall, batten out first to get a true plane.
Where we advise against it
Flexible stone in the greasy zones of a kitchen — behind the hob, the cooker and the extractor. Grease works into the pores and normal cleaning will not bring it out.
Any substrate that is damp, lifting, or has live cracks. The cladding hides the problem for a few months and then comes down with it. Deal with the cause first.
If you are unsure about your wall, talk to us before you buy. We would rather lose a sale than have it go on badly.
Installation of Acoustic Panels
Prepare the wall
Make sure the surface is clean, free of dust and grease, dry, smooth, and level.
Tip: Before securing the panels, place them against the wall to see how they'll look and ensure they're aligned.
Secure the panels
Apply construction adhesive to the back of the panel (in lines or a zigzag pattern).
Place it against the wall and press firmly.
Hold it for a few seconds.
Follow the drying time specified by the manufacturer.
Position the panel on the wall.
For 120 × 60 cm panels, the following is also recommended:
2 mounting points at the top between the slats
2 dots at the bottom
1 or 2 points in the central zone
Cut the panels (if necessary)
Do you need to adjust the size?
You can use a jigsaw, a circular saw, or a hand saw.
Whenever possible, cut from the back to avoid damaging the visible side.
Lightly sand the edges for a better finish.
The felt (backing) can be cut with scissors.
The wooden/MDF slats must be cut with a saw.
Plan your cuts to maintain visual continuity, avoiding cuts across the slats whenever possible.
Align and install
Place the next panel next to the previous one.
Check the alignment using a level.
Adjust until it fits properly and there are no visible gaps.
Repeat the process until the installation is complete.
Result:
Once the installation is complete, you will have:
echo and reverberation reduction
better acoustic comfort
a modern and elegant finish
Installation of Isothermal Panels:
Prepare the surface
Make sure the wall is clean, level, and has a suitable backing (wood or metal), or mount it directly on the wall.
Use our “Home” accessory in the same color as the panel (optional).
Attach the first panel
Drill holes in the wall at the mounting points and use anchors and screws to secure the panel so that it is level and firmly in place.
If the base is a metal structure, use self-tapping screws designed for metal.
If you need to cut panels, it is best to use a circular saw.
Quick-release system
Snap the next panel into the previous one using the connecting system.
Repeat the process along the wall.
Perfect finish
Installation completed with a modern and long-lasting result.
Thermal and acoustic insulation, with moisture protection.
Flexible Stone Installation
Before You Begin
Make sure the wall is clean, free of dust and grease, dry, solid, and level.
Apply the sticker
The adhesive depends on the surface: plaster/masonry/concrete → C2 flexible cementitious adhesive; on tile or smooth surfaces → sand the glaze + adhesion primer (or polymer-based adhesive); wood/furniture → contact adhesive; exterior/wet areas → a silane-siloxane water-repellent sealant on the face of the stone (e.g. Sika SikaGard-703 W).
Apply the adhesive to the wall using a notched trowel (3–4 mm).
Press the stone against the wall, ensuring it adheres completely.
Use a rubber roller to remove air bubbles.
Avoid leaving areas without adhesive, so as not to create hollow spots behind the piece.
Cut the pieces if necessary
Flexible stone is easy to cut.
For straight cuts, use a ruler and a knife or a sturdy pair of scissors.
For curved cuts (edges, corners), use an X-Acto knife with a new blade.
For large or detailed cuts, you can use a jigsaw.
Whenever possible, cut from the back for greater precision.
The flexibility of the stone allows it to follow the contours of pillars, curves, and uneven surfaces.
Installation and Alignment
Place each piece next to the one before it, making sure to:
correct alignment of textures
uniform joints (if desired)
visual continuity between pieces
For a more natural look, you can vary the position of the pieces slightly to mimic real stone.
If you prefer invisible seams, place the pieces close together without leaving any gaps.
Finish
After installation:
Wipe with a dry cloth to remove any adhesive residue.
Apply the water-repellent sealant (required in damp and wet areas) for extra protection against moisture and stains.
In bathrooms, showers and wet walls the water-repellent sealant is required: 2 coats, with the cut edges sealed. Where we do not advise flexible stone is in the greasy areas of a kitchen — behind the hob, the cooker and the extractor hood; grease gets into the pores of the stone and will not come out with normal cleaning.
